Some Of Our Favourite Dual Time Watches of All Time

Watchkeeping is an art that we’re not willing to let go of just yet. If you had asked us a couple of decades ago whether a dual-time watch would be possible, we’d have given you a big, flat-out NO! It seems like watchmaking just doesn’t seem to rest, though. 

So, whether you’re busy travelling the world or managing clients from different time zones, a dual-time zone watch can come in really handy. Here’s a quick dive into how these marvellous timepieces work and which ones have caught our eye.

What is a Dual Time Watch? 

Now, the idea of a dual-time watch may sound fairly new, but it’s actually been around longer than you might think. Back in the 18th century, timekeeping during the French Revolution got a major upgrade with the introduction of decimal time. Fast-forward to the 19th century, when communication and travel began shrinking the world—the need to track multiple time zones became a need. 

A dual time zone is a simple watch with two hour hands. The idea behind the design is to help wearers set a time for different time zones, for example, GMT and UTC.

In the early days, these watches were all about winding and winding — yes, manual style! However, as the 20th century rolled in, automatic movements entered the picture, with Rolex and others bringing serious innovation to the game. 

Fun fact: the Glycine Airman, launched in 1953, was actually the first dual time watch with a single dial, beating Rolex’s GMT Master to the punch by a year. 

Today, you’ll find dual time watches of practically all shapes and sizes. From vintage mechanicals to modern quartz models, they’re bound to keep you on time every time. 

How Does a Dual Time Watch Work? 

If you’ve ever wondered how a dual time zone watch works, you’re not alone. It’s all thanks to a clever design that makes it possible to keep track of two time zones at once. 

At the heart of most dual time watches is the GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) system. A dual time watch typically has a single dial with two distinct hands. One of these hands follows the standard 12-hour cycle, while the other hand completes a full rotation every 24 hours.

The primary hand works like any regular watch hand, making two trips around the dial in a day. The secondary hand, however, which usually sits on a 24-hour scale, shows you the time in the second time zone.

So, say your primary hand is pointing at 8 o’clock. Is it 8 AM or 8 PM? You simply have to compare the GMT hand on the 24-hour scale, which indicates whether it’s day or night. We’ll be honest with you, it may take you a while to get the hang of it — but once you do, there’s no stopping! 

How to Set the Time On a Dual Time Watch

Figuring out how dual time watches work was the least difficult part, how on earth do you set the time on one? It’s not as complicated as it may seem — we promise! 

Now, before you set up the bezel, you need to figure out the time difference between the location you’re currently in, and the time zone you want to keep track of. Say, for example, you’re in New York and need to set the watch to Geneva, which is 6 hours ahead, you’ll use this difference to adjust the bezel.

So far, so good? 

Next, you’ll need to rotate the bezel so that the 24-hour scale aligns with the time difference. In our case, we’ll rotate our bezel clockwise till it aligns with the ‘6’ and the 12 o’clock mark on your standard time display. If it’s currently 12 pm in New York, your GMT hand must point at ‘18’ for it to read 6 pm in Geneva. 

See? It’s that simple. 

How to Reset Your Dual Time Watch

Say you need to reset your dual time zone watch — it’s fairly simple but does require following manufacturing guidelines. We’ll run you through what you need to do, and you’ll have it ticking in no time!

Start by locating the crown, which is usually on the side of your watch. Pull it out to the correct position — this is typically the second or third position, depending on your watch model. Please read up a little on your watch, we don’t want no broken watches!

Okay, once you’ve located the crown, give it a twist to adjust the main time. Make sure you set the GMT hand as well. Now, turn the bezel to align it with your desired time difference. 

If you’re adjusting to a new time zone, make sure you're gentle with the bezel! To keep things smooth, it’s best to turn the watch hands clockwise. Also, it's a good idea to steer clear of making adjustments around midnight since that’s when many watches switch their date function, and you don’t want to accidentally mess with that mechanism. 

Dual Time Watches We’re Currently Drooling Over 

Lads, we’ve rounded up some of the best dual time watches of all time — this isn’t an exhaustive list though — just some wrist candies that have us head over heels in love. 

1. Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

Any dual time watch list would be incomplete without the mention of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. When we say it’s a true icon in the world of travel watches, we’re not kidding. The GMT-Master boasts a 40 mm case, features an automatic Caliber 3285 movement and sapphire crystal, and is built to withstand the rigours of everyday life. 

The Oyster Perpetual also happens to have a fascinating backstory: it all started in 1954 with the original GMT-Master, which was designed in collaboration with Pan Am Airlines pilots. The idea? To help pilots track time in two different time zones. And oh boy, did it deliver! 

It features the now-famous red-and-blue bicolour 24-hour bezel and an independently adjustable GMT hand. The 70-hour power reserve also means it’s got the chops to keep up even with your busiest travel itinerary. 

2. Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time is a true marvel and was first revealed in Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023. It’s got a 42 mm case and a sleek 9.85mm thickness, and it’s truly designed to have heads turning. 

Okay, now onto what sets this dual time watch apart: its 24-hour dial only makes one complete rotation per day, rather than the usual two. Quirky and innovative? Well, that’s Patek Philippe for you! 

3. Citizen Promaster Nighthawk

For those of you on a budget, that still wish to flaunt a dual time watch, the Citizen Promaster Nighthawk has got you covered! It’s priced at around $ 400, (which is a steal, if you ask us), and features Eco-Drive technology. Yep, you heard that right — it’s powered by light, so no more changing batteries! 

The Nighthawk’s standout feature is obviously its dual-time functionality. It’s also got luminous hands and markers, that light up in the darkest of skies. If you’re a fan of something stylish and chic, the Citizen Promaster Nighthawk is a must-have. 

4. Bulova Wilton GMT

Meet the Bulova Wilton GMT, a dual time zone watch that’s as sophisticated as it is versatile. Its sleek design features a classic stainless steel case and a striking blue bezel. You’ll also come to appreciate the date function, the crisp, clear dial and the textured world map pattern. All in all, if you’ve been wanting to flaunt a dual time watch but the sky-high prices had you holding back, the Bulova Wilton GMT is going to be your most worn accessory yet. 

5. Richard Mille Tourbillon Aerodyne Dual Time Zone

Ever wondered what happens when high-tech materials meet jaw-dropping designs? The Richard Mille Tourbillon Aerodyne is your answer. For starters, the baseplate is made of a material developed by NASA, known as orthorhombic titanium aluminide with a carbon nano-fibre core. 

The Tourbillon Aerodyne also counteracts gravity, which means it’s incredibly accurate and the transparent sapphire crystal gives you a peek into the marvellous movement. If you’re a fan of the finer things in life, this dual time watch is your best bet! 

Are Dual Time Watches Worth the Hype? The Jury’s Out!

A dual time watch, while not entirely a necessity, is a pretty nifty wrist candy to have. If you’re someone who’s never in one time zone for too long or needs to keep track of what’s happening across the globe, a dual time zone watch is your new best friend. 

Otherwise, you probably won’t have much use for one (other than the fact that it’s a great conversation starter).

Can’t decide? Browse through our collection of pre-loved luxury watches at Love Luxury in the meantime! We’ve got Rolex, Patek Philippe and a lot more brands to choose from and something for everyone!