There's something oddly satisfying about winding a Rolex. That subtle resistance as the crown turns. The almost imperceptible click of gears engaging. It's tactile proof that you're interacting with one of watchmaking's greatest products.
But if you've never wound one before, it can feel intimidating. You're holding thousands of pounds' worth of precision engineering. One wrong move and, well, nothing actually.
Rolex builds these watches to withstand more than nervous fingers turning a crown.
Still, knowing the proper technique is important. Here's everything you need to know about how do you wind a Rolex and set it correctly.
Do You Even Need to Wind?
First, let's clear something up. Almost every modern Rolex is automatic. That means it winds itself as you wear it. The Perpetual rotor inside swings with your wrist movement, transferring energy to the mainspring.
Wear it daily and you'll likely never need to wind it manually.
The exception? If your Rolex has been sitting unworn for a few days, it'll eventually stop. Most modern Rolex movements hold a power reserve of 48 to 72 hours. Some newer calibres push that to 70 hours. Once that reserve depletes, the watch stops running.
That's when you need to know how do you wind a Rolex.
Vintage manual-wind Rolex models are different. References like early Submariners, the original Explorer 6610, and various Precision models require daily winding. But if you're buying a new or even pre-owned Rolex from the past few decades, you've got an automatic.
Understanding the Basics of Crown Positions
Before we get into winding, you need to understand crown positions. Every Rolex operates on the same basic principle, though specifics vary slightly by model.
Position 0 (Screwed Down)
The crown is fully screwed against the case. This is where it should live 99% of the time. The Triplock or Twinlock system creates a hermetic seal that guarantees water resistance. Never leave your crown unscrewed unless you're actively setting or winding.
Position 1 (Unscrewed - Winding Position)
Unscrew the crown by turning it anti-clockwise. You'll feel it pop out slightly when it reaches Position 1. This is the winding position. Turn the crown clockwise here, and you're manually winding the watch.
Position 2 (First Click Out - Date Setting)
Pull the crown out one click from Position 1. On most Rolex models with date complications, this position lets you quick-set the date. Turn the crown clockwise and watch the date advance.
Position 3 (Fully Extended - Time Setting)
Pull the crown all the way out. The seconds hand stops. You can now set the time by rotating the crown in either direction. The hour and minute hands move together.
Not all models use all positions. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual, for example, has no date, so it skips Position 2 entirely. The GMT-Master II uses Position 2 differently, allowing independent hour hand adjustment. We'll get to that.
How Do You Wind a Rolex? The Manual Winding Process
Let's start with the basics. Your watch has stopped and needs winding.
Step 1: Unscrew the Crown
Turn the crown anti-clockwise. Don't force it. The crown should unscrew smoothly with minimal pressure. After a few rotations, you'll feel it pop out to Position 1.
Step 2: Wind Clockwise
Hold the watch in one hand. With your thumb and forefinger, turn the crown clockwise—away from you. You'll feel slight resistance as the gears engage the mainspring.
Continue turning. Most Rolex movements need 25-40 full rotations for adequate winding from a stopped state. The Rolex Submariner typically needs around 30 turns. A Rolex Datejust might want 35-40, depending on the movement generation.
You'll feel the resistance gradually increase. That's normal. It means the mainspring is building tension.
Step 3: Stop When Ready
Modern Rolex watches have a slip clutch mechanism. You literally cannot overwind them. Excess energy gets discharged harmlessly. But there's no benefit to continuing once you've given it 30-40 turns. That's a full wind.
Step 4: Screw the Crown Back Down
Press the crown gently toward the case whilst turning it clockwise. You'll feel it catch the threads. Continue screwing until it's finger-tight. Never force it. If it's not threading smoothly, unscrew slightly and try again.
How Do You Wind a Rolex Oyster Perpetual?
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is one of the most straightforward models to wind. No date complication means fewer positions to worry about.
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Unscrew the crown anti-clockwise until it pops to Position 1.
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Wind clockwise approximately 35 times.
That should give you a full wind with the Calibre 3230 movement found in current models. Older Oyster Perpetual references with the 3130 or earlier movements follow the same process.
Once wound, you can either screw the crown back down or continue to Position 2 (time-setting). There's no Position 2 for date since there's no date function.
The beauty of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch is its simplicity. Wind it, set the time, screw down the crown. Done!
How Do You Wind a Rolex Datejust?
The Rolex Datejust adds the quick-set date function, which changes the winding and setting process slightly.
Winding
The winding process is identical to that of any other automatic Rolex. Unscrew the crown, wind clockwise 35-40 times at Position 1, and screw the crown back down.
Setting the Time and Date
Here's where it gets interesting. If your Datejust has stopped, you need to set both the time and date.
Start by winding the watch at Position 1. Give it 30-40 winds to ensure the movement is fully charged.
Pull the crown out one click to Position 2. Turn the crown clockwise and watch the date advance. Set it to one day before today's date. This is crucial.
Pull the crown to Position 3. Set the time by advancing the hour and minute hands. When you pass midnight, the date should flip to the correct date. This tells you whether the watch is reading AM or PM correctly.
Continue setting the time until it is accurate. Push the crown to Position 1 and screw it down.
Important!
Never set the date between approximately 8 PM and 4 AM. During these hours, the date-change mechanism is engaged. Forcing the date change can damage the movement. If you're setting the watch during these hours, advance the time past 4 AM first, then adjust the date, then set the correct time.
How Do You Wind a Rolex Submariner?
The Rolex Submariner follows the exact same winding protocol as the Datejust. It's an automatic movement with date function (on Date models) or without (on the no-date Submariner).
The Sub typically needs about 30 clockwise rotations for a full wind. The current Calibre 3235 movement offers 70 hours of power reserve. Older references with the 3135 give you 48 hours.
For the Submariner Date
Follow the Datejust instructions above. Wind at Position 1, set date at Position 2 (avoiding the danger zone between 8 PM-4 AM), set time at Position 3.
For the Submariner No-Date
Simpler process. Wind at Position 1, set time at Position 2. No date to worry about.
The technique remains constant regardless of whether you're winding a steel Sub, a white gold Smurf, or a yellow gold reference. The movement inside dictates the process, not the case material.
How to Set Rolex GMT-Master II?
The Rolex GMT-Master II operates differently. It's designed to display multiple time zones, which means Position 2 has a unique function.
Winding
Standard procedure. Unscrew the crown, wind clockwise 25-30 times at Position 1. The GMT-Master II uses movements like the Calibre 3285 or 3186, depending on generation. Both need similar winding.
How to Set Rolex GMT-Master II for Multiple Time Zones
This is where it gets clever. The GMT-Master II lets you set three time zones: one on the GMT hand (the arrow-tipped 24-hour hand), one on the regular hour hand, and a third using the rotating bezel.
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Step 1: Wind the watch at Position 1.
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Step 2: Pull the crown to Position 3 (fully extended). The seconds hand stops.
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Step 3: Set your "home" time using the GMT hand and the 24-hour bezel markings. Rotate the bezel so the triangle points to 12 o'clock. Advance the hands until the GMT hand shows the correct home time on the 24-hour scale. Set the minutes as well.
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Step 4: Push the crown back to Position 2. Here's where the GMT-Master II shows its brilliance. At Position 2, you can move the regular hour hand independently in one-hour jumps. The date is linked to this hour hand.
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Step 5: Advance or retard the hour hand to your current local time. Each click moves it one hour. When you cross midnight, the date changes automatically.
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Step 6: Push the crown to Position 1 and screw it down.
Now your GMT hand displays home time (which never changes as you travel), your regular hour hand shows local time, and the date tracks local time. Want to track a third time zone? Rotate the bezel. Each click represents one hour offset from your home time.
It sounds complicated when written out. In practice, once you've done it a few times, setting a GMT becomes second nature.
Step-by-Step on How to Set Time on Rolex Datejust
Since the Datejust is one of the most popular models, here's a condensed step-by-step specifically for how to set time on Rolex Datejust:
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Unscrew the crown anti-clockwise
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Wind 35-40 times clockwise at Position 1
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Pull to Position 2, set date to yesterday
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Pull to Position 3, advance time past midnight until the date flips to today
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Continue setting the time to the current time
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Push the crown in and screw it down clockwise
Done. Your Datejust is set and ready!
Universal Tips on How to Set Time on Rolex
Regardless of the model, these principles apply when learning how to set time on Rolex:
Always wind first
If your watch has stopped, wind it before setting anything. A fully wound movement ensures the date-change mechanism has enough power to function properly.
Set the date carefully
Avoid the danger zone (8 PM to 4 AM). If you're uncertain whether your watch is showing AM or PM, set the date to yesterday, then advance the time past midnight. When the date flips, you know you're in the morning hours.
Take your time
Rolex crowns thread smoothly. If you're forcing anything, stop. You're doing it wrong.
For non-quick-set vintage Datejusts (pre-1977), you can't quick-set the date at all. You have to advance the time repeatedly, passing midnight, until the date reaches the correct day. Tedious but simple.
What You Need to Know About Rolex Watch Winder Settings
If you own multiple watches or don't wear your Rolex daily, a watch winder makes sense. It keeps the watch wound and ready to wear.
Most Rolex movements need approximately 650 turns per day (TPD) to maintain full wind. The standard setting across the range is 650 TPD, bidirectional rotation.
Bidirectional means the winder rotates both clockwise and anti-clockwise, mimicking natural wrist movement. This distributes mainspring tension evenly and reduces wear.
Rolex watch winder settings are remarkably consistent:
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Submariner: 650 TPD, bidirectional
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Datejust: 650 TPD, bidirectional
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GMT-Master II: 650 TPD, bidirectional
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Daytona: 650 TPD, bidirectional
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Sky-Dweller: 650 TPD, bidirectional
Vintage models and manual-wind references might vary, but modern Rolex movements standardised around 650 TPD when they introduced the Calibre 31xx and 32xx series.
To set up your winder, start with your watch fully wound. Place it in the winder. Set the TPD to 650 and rotation to bidirectional. Run it for 48 hours. Check if the time remains accurate.
If your watch is losing time, increase TPD to 700-750 and test again. If it's keeping time perfectly at 650, you've found your setting.
Modern Rolex watches have slip clutches. You cannot damage them with a watch winder. The worst that happens is unnecessary wear, but at 650 TPD bidirectional, that risk is minimal.
Voila! You’re Done!
Winding and setting up your Rolex can sound daunting until you realise it’s really not all that complicated. These things are built to survive storms, so a little trial and error definitely doesn’t hurt.
If you’re still unsure, pop into our store and have a professional do it for you. While you’re at it, browse our curated collection of brand new and pre-owned Rolex watches! You’re bound to find something you’ll fall in love with at first sight.
