If you ask us, Rolex bezels are definitely worth drooling over.
You might think that’s because they rotate with a really nice click (it’s true, they do), but that’s not really it. It’s because the one small component of your Rolex watch has literally 70 years of evolution behind it. The thought alone is mind-boggling!
From radioactive Bakelite to aluminium that slowly faded beautifully over the decades, to modern-day Cerachrom ceramic, every material has a story. And that story, my friends, is worth reading.
The Bakelite Era and When Bezels Were Literally Radioactive (1954-1959)
It all started in 1954, the year when Bakelite was used, the world’s very first entirely synthetic plastic. This was lightweight, mouldable and oh-so perfect for all those two-tone bezel inserts Pan Am Airlines requested for their pilots. The Rolex GMT Master bakelite bezel on the reference 6542 featured Bakelite, glowed in the dark and made nighttime navigation possible.
While the engineering behind it was brilliant, there was a slight radioactive problem behind it.
The bakelite bezel GMT came in two versions. The iconic red-and-blue Pepsi bakelite bezel insert for stainless-steel models (red for daylight hours, blue for nighttime) helped pilots instantly distinguish time zones. Then there was the reddish-brown bakelite watch bezel fitted to yellow gold GMT-Master references, which was equally stunning but considerably rarer.
What truly made the bakelite bezel Rolex pieces so amazing was the transparency of the material. This allowed the radium numbers to appear floating inside the bezel, creating both depth and texture. The colours were vivid, and the contrast between the red and blue tones was gorgeous.
Unfortunately, however, the Bakelite fever soon wore off when people realised just how brittle the material was, especially in heat. Rolex quickly realised they were dealing with a durability problem. Then came the radioactivity issue.
In 1959, the Atomic Energy Commission asked Rolex to recall all GMT-Master 6542 watches to check for radioactivity levels. While some received complete replacements with aluminium bezels, others had the radioactive Bakelite scraped out and replaced with tritium. Others simply disappeared into the depths of service centres, never to emerge again.
That’s just one of the reasons why finding an original GMT Bakelite bezel is so incredibly difficult. Since the production run only lasted from 1956 to 1959, followed by a recall, and the fragility of the watches, you're looking at perhaps a few hundred surviving examples worldwide.
The Aluminium Age and Fifty Years of Fade, Patina, and Character (1959-2012)
After Bakelite’s failure, Rolex moved to anodised aluminium. A sensible, durable and thankfully, non-radioactive material.
We’d also like to put it out there that the aluminium vs ceramic bezel debate essentially didn't exist for five decades because ceramic wasn't an option yet. Aluminium was simply how Rolex was making bezel insets. It worked really well, with the only downside of it aging.
Now, you’re probably wondering, what’s the big deal? Everything ages right? Well, the Rolex GMT aluminium bezel inserts faded over time. UV rays from the sun caused it to shift colours. Black bezels turn charcoal grey, blue became powder blue, and red became a salmon-pink colour. Initially, this wasn’t considered a flaw.
That’s because collectors quickly decided that faded bezels were ‘in.’ In fact, collectors who had a knack for vintage coined terms such as ‘ghost’ for Submariners with heavily faded aluminium bezels. The Submariner aluminium bezel on certain references developed cult followings specifically because of how beautifully they aged. Since each watch developed a one-of-a-kind patina, no two watches faded the same way.
Between 1959 and 2012, the aluminium era, we saw some nickname-worthy models. For example, the Kermit Submariner with green aluminium bezel, or the Bluesy. Various GMT-Master combinations in red/black, referred to as Coke, brown/gold referred to as Root Beer, and countless single-colour variations.
By the early 2000s, however, Rolex began working on something entirely different.
The Cerachrom Revolution Was When Ceramic Changed Everything (2005-Present)
2005 was when Rolex rolled out the GMT-Master II ref. 116718LN in yellow gold. This featured something no one had ever seen before: a black Cerachrom bezel made from proprietary ceramic alloy.
The Cerachrom bezel Rolex was a leap in the horological industry. It was virtually scratchproof, impervious to UV fading, resistant to chemicals, and was polished to such a high lustre that it would last you decades without dulling.
Initially, Rolex focused on single colours. Black cerachrom bezel on 2005 GMT-Master II, a blue on 2007 Yacht-Master II, and green on 2010 Submariner. Each colour required perfecting different chemical formulations.
Then, they learned to outdo themselves. They came up with the idea of the two-tone ceramic.
For years, Rolex claimed that creating two-colour ceramic bezels was technically impossible. Then in 2013, they unveiled the GMT-Master II "Batman" with a blue-and-black Cerachrom bezel. The following year brought red-and-blue "Pepsi".
The question is, how were they able to achieve that?
Proprietary process involving partially sintering one colour, adding second colour powder to specific sections, then completing the sintering process so both colours fuse as a single piece. Rolex patented the technique because nobody else could figure it out.
The Rolex Submariner Cerachrom bezel rollout began in 2008 with precious metal models before reaching stainless steel in 2010. By 2012, all Submariner production featured Cerachrom, completely replacing aluminium inserts.
Then came 2016's blockbuster, the Cerachrom Daytona in stainless steel. The ref. 116500LN featured a black Rolex Daytona Cerachrom bezel that instantly became one of the most desired watches on earth.
The Submariner Evolution
If you thought rolling out the Rolex Submariner Cerachrom bezel, was some random move, you might want to think again. Rolex had some serious strategy behind it.
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1953-1979: Bidirectional rotating bezels with aluminium inserts
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1979-2012: Unidirectional rotating bezels with aluminium inserts
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2008-Present: Unidirectional rotating bezels with Cerachrom inserts
What’s particularly interesting is the overlap period between 2008 and 2012. Rolex introduced Cerachrom on precious metal Submariners first, testing the market, perfecting production, building expertise before committing to steel models. It was a smart strategy that ensured quality rather than rushing ceramics across the entire line.
Which Bezel Material Should You Opt for?
If you’re in the market for a Rolex watch, this is one of those questions that's bound to cross your mind. If you’re buying a vintage watch, you’re most likely choosing based on the era rather than your preferred material.
For example, if you’re looking to get your hands on a 1960s GMT-Master, you’re getting an aluminium bezel. If you’re buying a modern Rolex watch, that choice is made for you already; everything currently in production is almost exclusively Cerachrom.
So, at the end of the day, it’s really not about which one’s better and more about what you’re looking for. It’s a personal preference, and your lifestyle will determine the right answer for you. Your bezel choice should reflect how you wear and appreciate your watches. Stop waiting around for someone to decide which one’s better for you!
Where Will Bezel Materials Go Next?
If there’s anything people love about Rolex, it’s got to be their wit and drive for something new. They’re never just done with innovating and are always looking to get ahead. In fact, for the GMT-Master’s 70th anniversary, there’s word on the street about Coke bezels, red and black.
If the luxury house can pull this one off, the Pepsi and Batman bezels might just have some serious competition. We might even see new single colours. Since Rolex has already mastered the blue, green, black and brown bezels, who’s to say their next colour can’t be purple? We’ll just have to wait and watch.
But there’s one thing we’re all truly certain about, and that is the Cerachrom bezel Rolex philosophy isn't going anywhere. Rolex has put in way too much into producing these to give it up just yet. Ceramic is most likely the present and future.
So… Are You Just Watching, or Turning?
Rolex has had a remarkable 70-year bezel evolution, from bakelite watch bezel radioactivity to cerachrom bezel durability. While Bakelite bezels were great for pilots, they were an unfortunate oversight about radiation safety. Then came aluminium with its honest aging, and finally, Cerachrom, the modern material that pushed science to its limits.
It’s really important for collectors to understand these materials since it ultimately changes the way you see your Rolex watch. The bezel has a story to tell, but only if you’re willing to listen.
If you’re looking to appreciate these bezels from a closer look, check out Love Luxury. We’ve got an exceptional collection of vintage and modern Rolex timepieces featuring aluminium and Cerachrom bezels.
Happy shopping!
