Rolex Reference Number Guide: How to Read, Identify, and Look Up Every Rolex Model

If you’re a collector new to the world of Rolex, the numbers next to each model probably confuse you. I mean, how many Datejusts can there be? And how do you differentiate between them? 

These numbers are known as Rolex reference numbers, and they allow you to tell different iterations of the same watch apart without ever looking at a picture of it.
What’s even more confusing is that not all reference numbers follow the same format.

If all this seems impossible to keep track of, you’re at the right place. This is a complete Rolex reference number guide which will tell you how to read, identify, and look up every Rolex model. 

What Is a Rolex Reference Number?

Think of the Rolex reference number as the model code for a watch. It tells you all about the case style, materials, production era, and which collection that specific model belongs to. 

However, it’s not to be confused with a serial number. While multiple Rolex watches can have the same reference number, the serial number is unique to every single watch. So, for instance, the Rolex reference number would tell you whether it’s a Submariner, Datejust, or GMT-Master and what the bezel type is, and so on.

Rolex is definitely not the only luxury watchmaker to use reference numbers, but their system is unique. Not only do these Rolex watch reference numbers keep their catalogue meticulously organised and distinguishable, but they also help with authentication and replacements. 

If you’re a collector, learning the Rolex reference number system will help you identify rare watches and how they’ve changed over the generations. Plus, the way a dealer lists the reference number for each watch can tell you a lot about their credibility. 

Where Is the Reference Number on a Rolex Watch?

You can find the Rolex reference number engraved between the lugs on the 12 o’clock side of each watch’s case. However, some newer models also have the reference number on the rehaut, which is the inner bezel ring near 6 o’clock. The original Rolex warranty card or watch documents also state the reference number in most cases. 

But wait, what do these numbers even look like? Simply put, they’re a string of letters and digits that tell you all about the watch’s:

• Make and model

• Materials

• Bezel style

• Other details like bezel color and gemstones

For instance, “126613LN” refers to the two-tone Submariner with a black dial and bezel.

How to Read a Rolex Reference Number

One tip to remember when looking at a reference number on Rolex watch is to read from left to right. Also, each digit in the reference is equally as important and has its own purpose, so read it quickly. 

The first five or six digits describe the watch’s model, and the final number tells you about the materials used for the case. 

For instance, the reference number of the Yellow Rolesor (18k yellow gold and tough Oystersteel) version of the Submariner Date Rolex watch will start with 126613. Meanwhile, the stainless steel version of the same watch will start with 126610. Then, there are the 18k yellow gold models that start with 126618.

Then, any other additions to the Rolex reference number will be in letters, describing the watch’s model using the French words for their names. For example, the classic black Submariner Date in stainless steel has the reference number 126610LN. In this case, LN stands for lunette (bezel) noir (black). Similarly, the version with the green bezel has the reference number 126610LV, standing for lunette verte (green), and so on. 

If there are any additional letters, they’re typically used to describe the type of gemstones attached to the watch. If you’re a Rolex fan, you’ve probably seen the off-catalogue Rainbow Daytona watches – these are distinguished with the letters “RBOW” at the end of their reference numbers. Similarly, the reference number of a gold Rolex Daytona with round diamond-set bezels will end in “RBR” (round brilliants). 

Popular Rolex Submariner Reference Numbers

Rolex released the Submariner in the 1950s, and it’s safe to say that it’s one of their most popular watches today. This purpose-built dive watch only gets more love every year for its charm and daily wear practicality. Here are some of the most popular Rolex Submariner reference numbers today:

• 124060: Submariner in stainless steel with a black ceramic bezel and Oyster bracelet

• 126610LN: Submariner Date in stainless steel with a black ceramic bezel and Oyster bracelet

• 126610LV: Submariner Date in stainless steel with a green ceramic bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 126613LN: Submariner Date in Yellow Rolesor with a black ceramic bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 126613LB: Submariner Date in Yellow Rolesor with a blue ceramic bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 126618LN: Submariner Date in yellow gold with a black ceramic bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 126618LB: Submariner Date in yellow gold with a blue ceramic bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 126619LB: Submariner Date in white gold with a blue ceramic bezel and Oyster bracelet 

However, these numbers are just for the ceramic era of the Submariner. If you’re hoping to get your hands on a vintage no-date classic, look for reference number 5513. Meanwhile, vintage First Date Subs have the reference number 1680. 

If you ask us, the best value pick is undoubtedly the modern classic from 1988–2010 (reference number 16610) since it’s highly wearable and a very accessible option for collectors hoping to get into vintage Rolex. 

What Are Rolex Datejust Reference Numbers?

The Datejust has one of the biggest model families, which means you can find it in more sizes and configurations than most other Rolex watches. That’s why its reference number tends to act more like a compact specification sheet. 

The first few numbers identify the watch’s model family while the remaining digits describe the bezel type and metal. For this watch, the bezel is a crucial differentiator, as it comes with smooth, fluted, or gem-set bezels. Meanwhile, the metals used typically include stainless steel, yellow gold, white gold, and Rolesor combinations.

Here are the most popular Rolex Datejust reference numbers:

• 278240: Datejust 31 in stainless steel with a smooth bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 278274: Datejust 31 in White Rolesor with a fluted bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 278344RBR: Datejust 31 in White Rolesor with a domed diamond bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 278384RBR: Datejust 31 in White Rolesor with a brilliant diamond bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 278243: Datejust 31 in Yellow Rolesor with a smooth bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 278273: Datejust 31 in Yellow Rolesor with a fluted bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 278343RBR: Datejust 31 in Yellow Rolesor with a domed diamond bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 278383RBR: Datejust 31 in Yellow Rolesor with a brilliant diamond bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 278241: Datejust 31 in Everose Rolesor with a smooth bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 278271: Datejust 31 in Everose Rolesor with a fluted bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 278341RBR: Datejust 31 in Everose Rolesor with a domed diamond bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 278381RBR: Datejust 31 in Everose Rolesor with a brilliant diamond bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 278278: Datejust 31 in Yellow gold with a fluted bezel and President bracelet 

• 278288RBR: Datejust 31 in Yellow gold with a brilliant diamond bezel and President bracelet 

• 278289RBR: Datejust 31 in White gold with a brilliant diamond bezel and President bracelet 

• 278275: Datejust 31 in Everose gold with a fluted bezel and President bracelet 

• 278285RBR: Datejust 31 in Everose gold with a brilliant diamond bezel and President bracelet 

• 126200: Datejust 36 in stainless steel with a smooth bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126234: Datejust 36 in White Rolesor with a fluted bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126284RBR: Datejust 36 in White Rolesor with a brilliant diamond bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126203: Datejust 36 in Yellow Rolesor with a smooth bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126233: Datejust 36 in Yellow Rolesor with a fluted bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126283RBR: Datejust 36 in Yellow Rolesor with a brilliant diamond bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126201: Datejust 36 in Everose Rolesor with a smooth bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126231: Datejust 36 in Everose Rolesor with a fluted bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126281RBR: Datejust 36 in Everose Rolesor with a brilliant diamond bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126300: Datejust 41 in stainless steel with a smooth bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126334: Datejust 41 in White Rolesor with a fluted bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126303: Datejust 41 in Yellow Rolesor with a smooth bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126333: Datejust 41 in Yellow Rolesor with a fluted bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126301: Datejust 41 in Everose Rolesor with a smooth bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

• 126331: Datejust 41 in Everose Rolesor with a fluted bezel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet 

You’ll notice that the Rolex reference numbers change as the watch evolves from the older hollow-link construction to the modern refined bracelets that are a bit more solid. Newer Rolex Datejust reference numbers can also tell you about the movement upgrades and any other subtle case refinements.

Rolex Daytona Reference Numbers

The Daytona is easily one of the most collectible Rolex watches today, especially since the release of the first automatic Daytona (reference number 16520). This was also the first watch to use a Rolex-modified Zenith El Primero base.

Then came the 116520, which featured the in-house Cal. 4130. That was followed by the ceramic-bezel 116500LN, which became one of the most sought-after modern steel Rolex watches. 

Here are the most popular Rolex Daytona reference numbers:

• 126500LN: Daytona in stainless steel with a black ceramic bezel 

• 126503: Daytona in Yellow Rolesor with a yellow gold bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 126508: Daytona in yellow gold with a yellow gold bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 126518LN: Daytona in yellow gold with a black ceramic bezel and Oysterflex bracelet 

• 126598TBR: Daytona in yellow gold with a brilliant diamond bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 126538TBR: Daytona in yellow gold with a brilliant diamond bezel and Oysterflex bracelet 

• 126509: Daytona in white gold with an white gold bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 126519LN: Daytona in white gold with a black ceramic bezel and Oysterflex bracelet 

• 126579RBR: Daytona in white gold with a brilliant diamond bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 126589RBR: Daytona in white gold with a brilliant diamond bezel and Oysterflex bracelet 

• 126539TBR: Daytona in white gold with a baguette diamond bezel and Oysterflex bracelet 

• 126505: Daytona in Everose gold with an Everose gold bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 126515LN: Daytona in Everose gold with a black ceramic bezel and Oysterflex bracelet 

• 126595TBR: Daytona in Everose gold with a baguette diamond bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 125535TBR: Daytona in Everose gold with a baguette diamond bezel and Oysterflex bracelet 

• 126506: Daytona in platinum with a brown ceramic bezel and Oyster bracelet

Rolex Explorer References Through the Years

There are two types of Rolex Explorers. The Explorer I, which is a simple three-hand tool watch, and the Explorer II, which is a much more expedition-focused model, featuring a fixed 24-hour bezel and GMT-style hand. When you study its reference numbers, you’ll see how the watch has evolved over the years from vintage sizes to larger cases, better lume, and modern movements. 

Here are the most popular Rolex Explorer references:

• 124270: Explorer 36 in stainless steel with a smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 124273: Explorer 36 in Yellow Rolesor with a smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet

• 224270: Explorer 40 in stainless steel with a smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet 

• 226570: Explorer II in stainless steel with a fixed 24-hour bezel and Oyster bracelet

When you compare the two, the Explorer I is obviously a collector’s favorite, especially the 1016 thanks to its long production run. We also recommend the 14270 and 16570 if you’re looking for more transitional or “neo-vintage” choices. 

Conclusion

Now that you’ve read our Rolex reference number lookup guide, you know all about the Rolex reference number system and how to differentiate between different watches. If you want to get into collecting, knowing these numbers will be a huge help. They make it easier to verify the watch’s stated specification and find replacement parts. 

The good news is that you can use this Rolex reference number search guide to find your preferred Rolex watch on Love Luxury, pre-loved and at a much more accessible price.