Luxury fashion loves a good style duel, and few are as intriguing as Hermès Sellier vs Retourne.
If you’re a first-time Hermès buyer or a seasoned collector, you’ve likely been in this pickle before. It’s the classic tale of structure vs. slouch, pitting two silhouettes of iconic bags like the Kelly and Birkin against each other in a battle.
One is crisp and geometric, the other relaxed and supple; Vogue-worthy glamour meets everyday chic.
Which style will win your heart?
Here’s everything you need to know about this conundrum in detail.
What Type of Stitch Does Hermès Use?
Hermès is famed for its impeccable stitching; look closely at any Birkin or Kelly and you’ll see perfection in every tiny stitch.
The secret behind this lies in a traditional hand-sewing technique known as the saddle stitch, or piqûre sellier in French. This isn’t your ordinary machine seam. It’s a labour intensive method where two needles and a single thread are used to sew each stitch by hand. The thread (often a waxed linen) is passed through every hole from both sides, locking each stitch so securely that if one were to somehow snap, the rest would not unravel.
This durability is one reason Hermès bags last for decades; the stitch itself is designed to endure tension and wear.
The term “Sellier” actually means “saddler” in French, you know, like Hermès’ origins as a master bridle maker and saddlery for the French? It’s fitting because the Sellier style highlights this heritage through its stitching.
On a Sellier bag, you’ll notice external top stitching along the edges, neatly visible and often tone-on-tone with the leather (though it can contrast too). These outward stitches give the bag a crisp outline and almost architectural precision. Hermès makers finish the exposed edges with a smooth resin or wax, sealing the leather and adding a subtle sheen.
The overall effect?
A silhouette with sharp, clean lines that celebrates the stitch as a design element in its own right.
In contrast, the Retourne style is all about hidden seams. “Retourne” literally means “reversed” in French, and that describes the construction process: the bag is stitched together and then turned inside out. The stitching is done with the same saddle stitch technique (Hermès uses this method on all its bags), but because the bag is inverted, those stitches end up inside the bag, out of sight.
The edges of a Retourne bag are not sealed with visible resin; instead, they’re softly rolled and piped with leather, giving a rounded finish. This results in a more curved, relaxed contour at the edges and corners. The craftsmanship is no less, though! Each piped edge is carefully hand stitched as well, but the look is subtler, with the stitching tucked away.
It’s worth noting that, whether Sellier vs Retourne, Hermès’ stitching is entirely done by hand using the saddle stitch.
This technique has been a hallmark of the house since the 1800s and is key to why Hermès bags have such a reputation for quality.
Are Hermès Bags Hand Stitched?
Yes. In fact, the hand stitched construction is a major part of what makes Hermès bags so special. Each Hermès bag is painstakingly made by a single maker from start to finish and this includes every stitch on the bag. There are no assembly lines or mass production machines for a Birkin or a Kelly.
Close your eyes and think of an expert at Hermès’ atelier in France, bent over a leather panel secured in a wooden saddle maker’s clamp. With waxed linen thread and two needles, they work stitch by stitch, often spending 18 to 25 hours to complete one Kelly bag.
The threads themselves are high quality linen with a light coating of beeswax, making them waterproof and rot resistant. After stitching, makers often gently hammer the seams and wax the edges to create a seamless, polished look. The end result is so perfect that it’s hard to believe a human hand did it, yet it did, every time.
It’s also been reported that a Kelly bag requires about 680 hand stitches by one Hermès maker. No wonder there are long waitlists and premium prices! Hermès prides itself on hiring and training only the best artisans (often graduates of fine leatherwork schools in France), and it can take years for a craftsperson to perfect the techniques used on bags.
Is Sellier or Retourne Better?
Now for the million dollar question: Sellier vs Retourne?
The truth is, neither style is objectively “better”, they’re different.
Think of them as two equally fabulous interpretations of a theme, each with its own personality. Choosing between them is a matter of personal style, lifestyle, and what you want out of your bag.
It’s a bit like choosing between a structured blazer and a cosy cardigan; both can be chic, but one might suit a fancy dinner and the other a casual coffee date.
Here’s a breakdown of the differences between Sellier vs Retourne, so you can decide which silhouette fits you best.
Kelly Sellier vs Retourne
The Hermès Kelly bag famously comes in two guises, Sellier and Retourne, and this is where the contrast truly shines.
The Kelly Sellier is the original, classic construction (the one Grace Kelly herself popularised in the 1950s), and it’s all about structure and polish.
A Kelly Sellier has sharp, angular lines and a firm shape that holds even when the bag is empty. Its outward pointing stitching traces the edges like a fine outline, giving a very tailored, elegant look.
Run your hand along a Kelly Sellier and you’ll feel the edge, firm and precise, with that slight waxed smoothness, almost like the crisp hem of a couture dress.
This style often comes in stiffer leathers such as Epsom or Box calf, which further enhance its rigid form.
On the other hand, the Kelly Retourne is like Kelly’s relaxed, carefree sister. Since it’s constructed inside out and then reversed, the Kelly Retourne has softer, rounded edges and no visible exterior stitching. The corners are gently curved, buffered by piping (much like the Birkin’s corners), which makes them a tad more durable against bumps in daily use.
The overall silhouette is slightly loose fitting, not floppy, but with a touch of give. In fact, if you set a Kelly Retourne down, it might “smile” a bit (the top edges relaxing apart), whereas a Sellier stands straight and firm.
Many Kelly Retournes are crafted from supple leathers like Togo, Clemence, or Swift, known for their softness and grain. These materials let the bag soften into your style: as you use a Retourne, it might develop a gentle slouch or become more pliable.
Practical Differences
1. Room for Essentials?
Because of its construction, the Kelly Retourne tends to hold a bit more than a Sellier of the same size. The softer sides can flex outward slightly to accommodate your essentials whether that’s an extra lipstick or your larger smartphone.
The Sellier, with its inflexible panels, actually has less interior space than it appears from the outside. If you carry a lot or like to toss things in on the go, Retourne might better suit your needs. A Retourne can also be easier to get in and out of the opening flexes a touch wider, and you don’t have to angle items as carefully when retrieving them.
The Sellier’s rigidity means you usually have to align things just right through the more structured opening, which some find a fair trade off for style, but others find a tad fussy when you’re reaching for your ringing phone.
2. How Does it Sit?
When it comes to carrying, the Kelly Sellier vs Retourne difference can even be felt in how the bag sits against your body.
A Sellier, especially in larger sizes, is like a little suitcase, it stays stiff, which can feel a bit awkward pressed against your hip. The Retourne nestles in more, moulding just slightly to you. If you wear your Kelly with the shoulder strap crossbody or on the shoulder, a Retourne will hug your side more comfortably due to that flexibility. That said, in smaller sizes (like the Kelly 25 or the ultra cute Kelly 20), this difference is minimal; a Kelly 25 Sellier is still quite light and easy to carry and many find it perfectly fine even as a crossbody bag.
3. The Style Face-Off
The Kelly Sellier is often seen as the dressier option. Its boxy, poised shape exudes formality and power. Can you imagine it with a structured A line dress or a sharp ensemble? That’s a serious boss move.
It’s the bag you carry to a business meeting when you want to feel like a boss, or the one a bride might choose in white for an elegant civil ceremony.
In contrast, the Kelly Retourne reads more casual chic. Picture it with a flowy blouse and jeans, or accompanying you to a relaxed brunch. Because it’s slightly more relaxed, many fashionistas love the Retourne for day-to-day life, it looks luxe but not too prim.
So, Which Side Are We On?
Both Kelly versions are undeniably gorgeous, and both are timeless.
Many Hermès collectors actually adore the Kelly so much that they end up with one of each style.
If you’re starting out, think about your wardrobe and occasions: Do you dress up frequently or love vintage-esque structured bags?
A Kelly Sellier might be your match.
Or do you prefer a touch of informality and want your bag to feel a bit more accessible and easygoing?
Then Kelly Retourne could be better for you.
In the end, it’s a personal call, and you truly can’t go wrong, as both are icons.
Birkin Sellier vs Retourne: Which One Should You Pick?
The Birkin Retourne
For decades, the Hermès Birkin, perhaps the world’s most famous handbag, was only made in the Retourne style.
That’s the classic Birkin look: a roomy tote with slightly soft sides and a gentle sag over time (the kind of relaxed slouch you might see on Jane Birkin herself in old photos). But Hermès shook things up in recent years by introducing the Birkin Sellier, a fresh twist on the icon. Suddenly, the Birkin could be had with razor sharp edges and visible stitching, just like the Kelly Sellier. This was a big deal in the Hermès community!
A Birkin Retourne has the familiar soft, rounded seams with piping, since it’s crafted inside out and then flipped. The handles, flap, and sangles (the straps that buckle in front) all blend gracefully into the softly constructed body. You can see a slight puffiness at the side seams due to the piping, and over time, a Togo or Clemence leather Birkin will develop a slouch, especially in the centre and corners.
It’s part of the bag’s charm; a well-travelled Birkin looks like it has stories to tell. The classic Birkin is often made of Togo, Clemence, or other hearty grain leathers that can handle daily use and give that pliable drape. Also, because of its two top handles, a Birkin is usually carried in the crook of the arm or by hand, which works fine with the Retourne style that kind of molds to your side as you carry it.
The Birkin Sellier
The Birkin Sellier was first seen in a limited edition in 2014 and then more widely around 2019. This newcomer is the Birkin reimagined with strict form and bold lines. At first glance, it’s almost surprising, the Birkin Sellier looks extremely sleek and structured, more trapezoidal. All the seams are external with top stitching. As a result, the Birkin Sellier’s outline is strikingly clean — those side panels don’t bow out, they form a crisp angle.
This style is currently produced in firm leathers like Epsom, Veau Madame, or Butler, leathers with enough stiffness to hold the shape. Touch a Birkin Sellier and you’ll notice it feels more rigid; the leather is taut over the bag’s frame. Because of that, the Birkin Sellier doesn’t sag (even after years) the way a classic Birkin might. It stays pristine. Some adore this look, it’s a Birkin that’s ultra polished, giving you the cachet of the Birkin name with an even more formal twist.
Practical Differences: Birkin Sellier vs. Retourne
Much like the Kelly comparison, a Retourne Birkin will accommodate more and give more. Its sides have a bit of flex, and you can slightly overstuff it if needed (the leather will stretch a tiny bit). A Sellier Birkin is more rigid and holds a bit less, so you’ll be mindful not to force in that extra scarf or bulky wallet. Also, because the Birkin doesn’t have a shoulder strap, you carry it by hand. A Sellier Birkin in a larger size (35cm, for example) can feel a bit boxy against your leg, whereas a Retourne 35cm will bump softly.
The Birkin Sellier also tends to command a higher price. At Hermès boutiques, it was priced above the normal Birkin due to the additional workmanship and time it takes to construct those precise edges.
Whether a Birkin Sellier is “better” for you or not comes down to usage. If you want a Birkin as an everyday tote to throw everything in, the Retourne might serve you better with its forgiving nature.
If you want your Birkin to always look pristine and stand up on its own like a showpiece, the Sellier is a thrilling option.
At the end of the day, Hermès has given us the gift of choice, and there’s no wrong answer in this Sellier vs Retourne debate, only what delights you more.
So, Sellier vs Retourne? The Jury’s Out, Folks!
At the end of the day, Hermès has given us two beautiful interpretations of their bags. The Sellier vs Retourne choice is almost a reflection of personality: Are you drawn to the sleek, structured, vintage elegance of a Sellier, or the soft, effortless, modern luxury of a Retourne?
Some Hermès fans playfully argue one side or the other, but most will agree that both deserve a place in a well rounded collection. In fact, many eventually collect one of each style because they truly serve different purposes and moods.
So this showdown really has no loser; it’s win win for you and your wardrobe! Speaking of which, Love Luxury’s out here making your Hermès dreams come to life! Have a look at our collection of pre-loved, gently used, pre-owned, and unused purses! There’s always room for another dream bag!
