Rolex’s greatest watchmaking innovations are indelible. From their exquisite craftsmanship to their authenticity, owning a Rolex is equal to saying “I’ve made it in life.” Founded in 1905, the Swiss brand revolutionised the art of watchmaking. From iconic models like the Submariner to the Daytona, these watches are revered for their durability and innovation.
However, over the decades, Rolex has encapsulated unique acronyms with each new release. Watch enthusiasts and collectors value these as part of the brand’s mystique. Understanding these Rolex acronyms is key to truly understanding your timepiece. From terms like BLNR, BLRO, CHNR and more, we have got you covered! Let’s discuss what each term means!
Understanding a Rolex Reference Number
Understanding a Rolex reference number is quite the ordeal. Rolex has seamlessly transitioned from using 4-digit to 6-digit reference numbers with modern designs. Most modern Rolexes feature the number ‘2’ in their design. However, this is not the case for models like the Pearlmaster, Cellini or the Sky-Dweller.
Moreover, each digit and character in a reference number represents 4 core things:
- Bezel Type
- Material
- Bezel Colour
- Model Type
Bezel Numbers
With most modern Rolex designs, one of their reference numbers indicates the bezel type. Primarily, the second to last number represents the bezel type. This goes for model watches with 5-digit and 6-digit reference numbers such as Rolex Daytona 16523 or Rolex Submariner 124060.
Let’s explore the various bezel numbers and what they mean.
Bezel Code | Bezel Type |
0 | Domed/Smooth/Polished |
1 | Engine Turned |
2 | Engraved |
3 | Fluted |
4 | Gem-set |
6 | Rotatable |
7 | Others |
Model Type Reference Number
For a Rolex model, their reference number also displays the specific model type. For example, the Air-King collection’s reference numbers start with 55, 140, 116 114 and so on. Let’s take a look at what each model type’s reference number looks like.
Please note: We have listed down the starting reference numbers for each collection. The model type is based on these.
Model Type | Starting Reference Numbers |
Datejust | 116-, 170-, 163-, 162-, 160-, 660-, 630-, 651- |
Submariner Date | 16-, 166-, 1166-, 1266-, 168- |
GMT-Master | 167-, 654- |
GMT-Master II | 167-, 1167-, 161- |
Air-King | 140-, 114-, 7784-, 6552-, 6500-, 5701, 5700, 5520, 550-, 4925, 4365, 1009 |
Cellini | 669-, 667-, 662-, 611-, 533-, 524-, 511-, 524-, 424-, 423-, 422-, 411-, |
Date | 115-, 155-, 152-, 150-, 6627, 6605, 6534, 6518, 6335, 6075, 5075, 1625, 1603, 1570, 1560, 1550, 150- |
Datejust Mid-Size | 178-, 813-, 812-, 811-, 782-, 774-, 770-, 682-, 7518, 6824 |
Datejust Turn-O-Graph | 116-, 162-, 6309, 1625 |
Datejust OysterQuartz | 170- |
Day Date | 118-, 190-, 189-, 183-, 182-, 180-, 6611, 6511, 180-, 190- |
Daytona | 116-, 165-, 626-, 624-, 623- |
Explorer II | 216-, 165 |
Explorer | 114-, 142- 661-, 635-, 629-, 6150, 6098, 5504, 1038, 1016 |
Datejust Ladies | 179, 803-, 802-, 792-, 791-, 790-, 692-, 691-, 651- |
Masterpiece | 813-, 803-, 802-, 692-, 189- |
Milgauss | 116-, 6451, 1019 |
Oyster Perpetual | 142-, 663-, 662-, 660-, 659-, 658-, 657-, 656-, 655-, 654-, 653-, 652-, 651-, 628-, 620-, 617-, 610-, 608-, 550-, 156-, 150-, 1038, 1030, 1025-, 101-, 100-, |
Sea-Dweller | 116-, 166- |
Submariner | 140-, 114-, 653-, 620-, 551-, 550- |
Yacht-Master | 169-, 168-, 166-, 116-, 696-, 686-, 186-, 166-, |
Material Number
When choosing between an analogue and a digital watch, checking the material number is crucial. Rolex watches are the epitome of luxury. Skilled craftsmen put extra labour into making these from varying materials, such as stainless steel, platinum, white gold, yellow gold, pure Everose and pure platinum.
The final number in a Rolex identification number indicates the watch material. Let’s break down a few.
Respective Code | Material |
0 | Stainless Steel |
1 | Stainless Steel and Everose Gold - or Everose Rolesor |
2 | Stainless Steel and Platinum - or Rolesium |
3 | Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow Gold - or Yellow Rolesor |
4 | Stainless Steel and 18k White Gold - or White Rolesor |
5 | Everose |
6 | Pure Platinum |
8 | 18k Yellow Gold |
9 | 18k White Gold |
Letters And Their Associated Colours
Ever looked at a Rolex reference number and come across various alphabets linked at the end? How confused have you been at them? From Rolex’s BLNR, BLRO, GRNR, CHNR, LB, LB, GV and more, the letters can get confusing.
Don’t fret - it’s very easy. Each letter described a particular gem or colour associated with the Rolex model. For instance; B stands for Bleu, hence; blue. Rubis - Ruby and so on. Here is a concise list of each gem and colour:
- Chocolat: Brown
- Brillants: Faceted Diamonds
- Bleu: Blue
- Emeraude: Emerald
- Jaune: Yellow
- Glace: Crystal
- Lunette: Bezel
- Noir: Black
- Rubis: Ruby
- Rouge: Red
- Saphirs: Sapphire
- Vert: Green
Similarly, a string of alphabets is present at the end of a reference number. For example, the Rolex Submariner 126613 LB, or the Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” 126710 BLNR. Below listed are a few prominent examples.
Rolex Letters | Their Meanings | Example Models |
GV | Glace Verte - or Green Crystal | Rolex Milgauss 116400GV |
LV | Lunette Verte - or Green Bezel | Rolex Submariner "Hulk" 116610LV |
LN | Lunette Noir - or Black Bezel | Rolex Submariner 126610LN |
LB | Lunette Bleu - or Blue Bezel | Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” 126613LB |
BLRO | Bleu Rouge - or Blue Red | Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” 126710BLRO |
BLNR | Bleu Noir - or Blue Black | Rolex GMT - Master II “Batman” 126710BLNR |
GRNR | Gris Noir - or Gray Black | Rolex GMT-Master II 126713GRNR |
CHNR | Chocolat Noir - or Brown Black | Rolex GMT-Master II “Root Beer” 126711CHNR |
SARU | Saphirs Rubis - or Sapphires Rubis | Rolex GMT-Master II SARU 116759SARU |
SABR | Sappirs Brillants - or Sapphires Diamonds | Rolex Submariner 116659 SABR |
SANR | Sapphirs Noir - or Black Sapphires | Rolex GMT-Master II SANR 116758SANR |
RBOW | Rainbow Saphires | Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 116595RBOW |
Gem-Set Rolexes
Want to know one interesting fact? The SABR, SANR and SARU Rolexes are part of the gem-set family. Similarly, a few gem-set Rolexes, seemingly lost to time need to be studied. Your best bet at buying a gem-set Rolex would be as a pre-owned or vintage model. You can find GREAT ones at Love Luxury!
Here are a few forgotten Rolex acronyms known only by the masters.
Rolex Letters | Their Meanings | Example Models |
SABLV | Saphirs Bleu Vert - or Bleu and Green Saphires | Rolex Pearlmaster Ladies Watch Model 86348SABLV |
TEM | Tessallate Emeraude - or Emiralds | Rolex Day-Date 40 Green Emerald 228396 TEM |
TBR | Tessellate Brillant - or Diamonds | Rolex Daytona 116576TBR |
SACO | Saphirs Cognac - or Cognac Sapphires | Rolex Daytona 116598 SACO |
SAJOR | Saphirs Jaune Orange - or Yellow Orange Sapphires | Rolex Lady Datejust Pearlmaster 86348SAJOR |
SAFUBL | Saphirs Fuchsia Bleu - or Fuchsia Blue Sapphires | Rolex Datejust Pearlmaster 86349SAFUBL |
Types of Rolex Links
Similar to the dots on a Rolex, each bracelet features a link catered to its model type. Whether it’s a vintage Rolex or a modern timepiece, each is special and unique in its making. From complex links like Glide Locks to simplistic Hollow locks, here is a breakdown of all Rolex link types:
Link Types | Description |
Daimier | A luxurious link made from solid gold, reserved for Rolex Cellini. |
D-Link | Another word for Jubilee links (Hollow) |
Fold Over | Oyster links that feature a folded metal rather than casted metal for the link making. |
Easy Link | A modern link extension system whereby the under-buckle link unfolds, elongating the bracelet. |
Expansion Rivet | A simple rivet that stretches. |
Glide Lock | Featured links on the Submariners or Deepsea watches. |
Rivet | Riveted links with a cap on an oyster link. |
Oval | Vintage-style oval jubilee links. |
Hollow | Centrally hollow links. |
Solid | Solid metal links. |
Transitional fold over | Ultra-unique fold-over links. |
Types of Rolex Bracelets
Rolex watches are known globally for their timeless style, luxury and precision-making. One of the standout features that set most Rolex watches apart is their range of high-quality bracelets.
Whether you like the rugged practicality and durability of the metal or the timeless elegance of leather-made Rolex watches, there is a bracelet befitting your preference. Let’s take a look at a few popular bracelet types.
Bracelet Types | Description |
Integral | Angular linked bracelet, commonly found on the now discontinued oyster quartz model. |
Jubilee | A classic design was originally introduced to commemorate Rolex’s 40th anniversary in 1945. |
President | Reserved for Rolex watches made from precious materials; for example, platinum or gold. |
Oyster | Characterised by three-piece flat links, each providing subtle movement. |
Pearlmaster | A modified oyster bracelet featuring rounded edges. |
NATO | Originally designed for military use, made from nylon fabric. However, they provide a sporty and manly look, perfect for casual wear. |
Rubber | Designed for sports watches, intended for water activities. They are highly resistant to chlorine and saltwater. |
Leather | Various leather straps are available; such as ostrich, crocodile or alligator. These provide a classy and elegant look, perfect for professional wear. |
Types of Bezels
Still not tired? Good! Rolex, renowned for its attention to detail, incorporates elements that serve both aesthetic and functional purposes in its iconic watches. The bezels add a refined touch, reflecting light beautifully, and drawing all the attention.
The bezel enhances the watch’s utility and overall performance while looking elegant. From professional Rolexes to standard ones, each bezel type is privy to its various styles. Think of each bezel like a code; you are an investigator. Now decipher the code.
Rolex Bezels | Descriptions |
Smooth | The simplest Rolex bezel; featuring a straight slant. |
Domed | Compared to its predecessor, domed bezels feature a slight curve. |
Fluted | One of the most popular bezel textures. Sharp dips are seen on the bezels. |
Engine-turned | A guilloché-style bezel made by repetitive engine-turning. A pattern is repeatedly engraved into the dial. |
Hour | Exactly what it says: a 24-hour bezel. |
Countdown | An underrated design, featuring a functional bezel with a countdown system. |
60-minute | An hour is etched onto the metallic bezel design. |
Tachymeter | A scale was used to indicate the units per hour on several Rolex Daytona models. |
Diamond | Fully diamond-set bezels; some with 12, others with scattered and 24 diamonds. |
Ruby | Darker ruby bezels; trapezoidal, baguette rubies. |
Sapphire | Exquisite sapphire bezels with a vast colour variety. |
3 Gem Combination | More commonly seen as a rainbow sapphire bezel with the Rolex Daytona RBOW collection. |
Emerald | Made out of square emeralds or EMRO (Emerald baguettes). |
Slang Terms and Popular Rolex Nicknames You Might Have Missed
Our final segment is going to go in-depth about various Rolex terms you might have missed. Over the years, Rolex enthusiasts and collectors have given affectionate nicknames to certain models based on their cultural association, colours or unique features.
Moreover, these provide an intriguing glimpse into the personality of each watch. Here are our personal favourites.
Slacronyms (Slang Acronyms) | Reasoning Behind Each | Example Model |
Batgirl | Labelled as such due to the addition of the Jubilee bracelet to Rolex in 2019. | Rolex “Batgirl” GMT-Master II |
Batman | The other counterpart was introduced in 2013 with a blue and black bezel insert—totally Dark Knight. | Rolex “Batman” GMT-Master II |
Big Crown | A previous Submariner version with a larger crown and no crown guards. | Submariner 6538 Big Crown |
Big Red | A result of one of the first manually-wound Rolex Cosmograph Daytona models. | The Rolex Daytona 6263 “Big Red” |
Bart Simpson | An underrated nickname; however the Rolex crown logo and Bart Simpson’s hair resemblance are uncanny. | Rolex Submariner 'Bart Simpson' (5513) |
Bubbleback | A grandfather watches with an ovular case. | Vintage Rolex 3131 Bubbleback |
Coke | A striking resemblance to the Coke colours on the GMT-Master II with a black and red bezel insert. | Rolex “Coke” GMT-Master II Ref. 16710 |
Hulk | A green Cerachrom bezel and a green dial. Too much greenery; not enough Hulk. | Rolex “Hulk” Submariner Ref. 116610LV |
Khanjar | An ode to the late Sultan of Oman, who ordered Rolexes with the royal crest of Oman featuring two striking curved daggers. | Rolex Day Date 1803 Oman Khanjar |
Polar | A simple Explorer II featuring a white dial. | Rolex Explorer II 226570 |
Conclusion
Rolex acronyms are more than just abbreviations – they are keys that unlock the historical and rich technical world of this iconic brand. From Oyster Perpetual to GMT acronyms, these encapsulate Rolex’s commitment to innovation, durability and precision.
Understanding these acronyms adds another layer of appreciation for the infamous brand. Each tells a story of Rolex’s quest for excellence. Whether you’re an experienced collector or a newcomer to the world of horology, you should consider studying these acronyms.
Want to enhance your collection of genuine Rolex treasures? Dive into the luxurious world of original watches only with Love Luxury!
Make choices that reflect your style perfectly! With that, thanks for reading this piece and look out for more in the future!