The “Big Three” of Watches: Explained

For those who can afford them, Swiss watches aren't just accessories; they're symbols of craftsmanship and luxury. Among watch collectors, there's a trio of Swiss watchmakers that run the game, known affectionately as "The Big Three of Watches" since the 1970s.

They're the haute couture of the watch world – brands that set the standard with each new release.

Here's the question: who are the Big Three of Swiss watches, and how did they become a part of this exclusive club? Learn the answers to all that and more in our comprehensive guide to the Big Three. 

What is the Big Three of Watches?

The Big Three refers to three major and very old watchmakers globally. These brands are:

1. Patek Phillippe
2. Audemars Piguet
3. Vacheron Constantin

They're well-known for making intricate movements and luxury watches with price tags unaffordable by your average Joe. This term has been used since at least the 1970s.

Vacheron Constantin is the oldest of the three, founded in 1755. Meanwhile, Patek Phillippe was founded in 1839, and Audemars Piguet in 1875.

Now, let's dive into how and why each brand made its way into the Big Three of luxury watches. 

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet has been admired as one of the top watchmakers since 1875. This Swiss luxury brand has achieved many firsts in watchmaking, like creating:

• The first wristwatch with a minute-repeating movement in 1892
• The world's initial skeleton watch in 1934
• The first ultra-thin watches in 1986

Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet were childhood buddies and watchmakers who joined forces in a small village in Switzerland. Audemars had experience creating intricate watch movements for Tiffany & Co., while Piguet focused on watch movement regulations. 

They founded their company under a joint name. Audemars took on production and technical aspects, while Piguet focused on sales and management.

The company is still operated by its founding families, with Jules' great-granddaughter Jasmine Audemars as its current CEO.

Let's look at a few iconic pieces that changed the future of watchmaking and solidified Audemars Piguet's position among the top watchmakers.

Royal Oak

Audemars Piguet gained immense recognition with the launch of the Royal Oak collection in the 1970s. The Royal Oak became the brand's signature timepiece, especially in Hollywood.

Designed by Gérald Genta and inspired by traditional diving helmets, it became the first luxury sports watch with exposed screw heads and an integrated bracelet. For its 20th anniversary, Emmanuel Gueit redesigned it into the Royal Oak Offshore with a larger and more durable case than the original. 

Millenary Frosted Gold Aventurine Dial

Introduced in 1995, the Millenary collection is the perfect embodiment of the brand's philosophical yet creative essence. The Millenary Frosted Gold Aventurine Dial was a new benchmark in modern design and technical mastery. 

With its hammered and satin-finished 18-carat white gold elliptical case, deep blue aventurine dial, and intricate 3-D architecture, this watch was the symbol of elite horology.

[Re]master01

Audemars Piguet rarely launches new watch collections, but when it does, everyone takes notice. 

The two-tone [Re]master01 isn't just a historical reissue; it faithfully remasters the original concept of an integrated self-winding chronograph. The pieces feature a 40mm diameter with a bezel, crown, and pushers made of pink gold. The collection was limited to just 500 pieces.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe has made headlines with eight of the ten most expensive watches ever sold at auctions. The brand was founded by Antoni Patek and Adrien Philippe, a Polish-French duo in Geneva in 1839. They're known for introducing and popularizing intricate features in mechanical watches, like the perpetual calendar and chronograph. 

Today, Patek Philippe has over 20 basic calibres, more than 100 patents, and royal approval for their inventions. Queen Victoria wore a Patek Philippe keyless pendant watch and a timepiece attached to a lavish brooch at the 1851 Great Exhibition. Nearly twenty years later, Countess Koscowicz of Hungary made history by requesting the first Swiss wristwatch.

Grandmaster Chime

The pinnacle of Patek Philippe's achievements is the Grandmaster Chime – sold for a staggering $31.19 million at auction. Yes, you read that right.

This timepiece has 20 complications, a reversible case, two dials, and six patented innovations. The best part? It was all achieved through over 100,000 hours of labour.

Calatrava

In 1932, Patek Philippe was acquired by the Stern family, introducing the iconic Calatrava model. Designed by David Penney, it was inspired by Germany's Bauhaus movement. The Calatrava is celebrated for its simple elegance and timeless design.

Sky Moon Celestial

The Sky Moon Celestial, launched in 2015, pays homage to the era of pocket watches. When it was first released, everyone was rushing to get their hands on it, even collectors like Henry Graves, Jr. and James Warm Packard. 

True to the name, this watch has intricate details like the meridian passage of Sirius and moon phases, displayed on black sapphire-crystal disks. Made from sapphire crystal, its dial perfectly showcases the brand's unmatched craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Vacheron Constantin

Established in Geneva in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron, Vacheron Constantin is the oldest continuous Swiss maker of luxury watches and clocks. Vacheron himself was closely connected to Enlightenment thinkers like Jean-Jacques Rousseau and Voltaire, who shared his interest in watchmaking.

If we had to put it simply, the company is 50% French elegance and 50% Swiss precision. With the invention of in-house machinery, Vacheron Constantin became the first to produce standardized interchangeable parts for watches.

Once he partnered with François Constantin, Vacheron saw the true scope of selling his timepieces. The brand has had a truly rich history, enduring the French Revolution and being led by two women into the 20th century.

In 1770, Vacheron Constantin introduced the world's first complication in a watch. Just nine years later, they launched engine-turned dials, beginning a long career of technologically advanced watches.

The Kallista

In 1979, the Kallista was born: the most expensive timepiece ever made. Thanks to its 118 emerald-cut diamonds, it was valued at $11 million in today's currency. 

Designed by artist Raymond Moretti, the Kallista took 20 months and 6,000 hours to create, weighing over 2.2 pounds. The watch is still hidden at Vacheron Constantin's headquarters, increasing in value by $4,000 daily. Yes, every day!

The success of the Kallista also inspired the limited-edition Kalla collection.

Overseas Line

Vacheron Constantin introduced a high-end sports line named Overseas in 1996. It also underwent revamps in 2004 and 2016. 

Its pieces feature complications like chronographs, world time, tourbillons, and moon phases. Designed to evoke a sense of freedom, Overseas watches come with interchangeable straps and an easy-fit system.

Why is Rolex Not Part Of The Big Three?

Rolex is undoubtedly one of the most well-known Swiss watch brands. However, it's not part of the prestigious Big Three of watches – why is that?

Well, Rolex has always focused on producing larger quantities of durable tool watches. The brand prioritizes functionality and robustness over intricate designs and advanced complications.

While Rolex watches are just as hard to find as the Big Three, they don't quite align with the exclusivity of the club. 

Rolex's reputation is built on its dive watches, chronographs, and simple yet accurate models. These qualities appeal to many, but not to the fans of the Big Three looking for precious materials and old complications.

The Debate About the Big Three

The idea of the "Big Three of Watches" has been around for many years, dating back to at least the 1970s. This explains why certain brands aren't a part of this exclusive group. 

1. Lange & Söhne, in its modern form, began in 1990 after Germany's reunification. Blancpain ceased operations in the 1970s but was revived in the 1980s. Breguet had challenges during the 1970s and 1980s, including changes in ownership. 

Meanwhile, Jaeger-LeCoultre – "the watchmaker's watchmaker" – only made high-quality watch movements for other brands early on rather than complete watches under its own name.

Recently, there has been debate about changing the traditional trio or adding a fourth to form a quartet. Some have even posited creating a complementary second trio. 

Several high-end watch brands, like H. Moser and Cie, have a heritage similar to that of the original trio. A. Lange and Söhne, being German, share a long-running, prestigious history. Plus, newer brands like F.P. Journe are also taking over the world of watchmaking.

Conclusion

When someone mentions the Big Three, the names of the three iconic Swiss watchmakers come to mind. This term represents the excellence, appeal, skill, attention to detail, and high-end manufacturing of these brands. 

Do you think it's time to include other well-loved watchmakers, such as Rolex, in the Big Three?