Dearest, gentle reader. We’re back with the ultimate timekeeping smackdown: the forever ongoing debate on office GMT vs travellers GMT. If you’re anything like us, you’ve probably heard these terms being thrown around like confetti — with no clue what they actually mean.
Worry not! We’ve done all the digging on caller vs flyer GMT for you. Here’s everything you need to know about the two.
What Even is a GMT Watch?
If you don’t know already, a GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) watch is a convenient gadget that allows you to track time in multiple time zones. Just like any regular watch, the hours and the minute’s hands tell you the current time in the zone you’re in. The second (or even third) timezone is pointed out by an additional hand that circles around the dial once in 24 hours.
If you’re a novice to the hobby of collecting watches, you’re likely to think it’s not much use since your phone is perfectly capable of doing the same. Why even bother investing in a GMT watch, then? But let’s be honest — it’s pretty cool, and the craftsmanship and engineering are truly something to marvel at.
Let’s take a short trip down memory lane. The need for a GMT watch first arose post-World War II when commercial and international flights became a thing. The first GMT watch was created by a Swiss brand, Glycine — which at the time wasn’t as popular. It wasn’t until Rolex, though, that word got out.
Caller Vs. Flyer GMT: What’s a ‘Caller’ GMT?
Now that we’ve brushed up on our basics, what is a ‘caller’ GMT, and why is it called that? A caller GMT, more commonly referred to as the ‘office’ GMT, was designed for your typical businessman. Someone who’s always on the go and is constantly carrying out international business dealings.
You’re in Dubai and you need to keep track of calls from a business partner or investor in New York? The caller GMT has you covered. All you need to do is set your zone’s time on the primary hands and manually adjust the GMT hand to match the time in your desired zone. It’s pretty simple, really.
If you’re looking to invest in a caller GMT, you may want to have a look at the Seiko Prospex SPB377. This is a popular option amongst businessmen and we can see why. Not only does it come with a power reserve lasting up to 3 days and a date calendar, but it’s also water resistant to 200 meters.
What is a ‘Flyer’ GMT?
Before we can settle the caller vs. flyer GMT debate, we need some insight into what the ‘flyer’ GMT is. This type of GMT has a couple of names, the ‘flyer’, the ‘traveller’, and most frequently, true GMT watches. We’ll get to the later term in a bit.
This watch is a dream for any pilot and we can already tell why. In functionality, the flyer GMT is the polar opposite of the caller GMT. if you’re someone who’s constantly moving around and never seems to stay in one place for too long, you need to be able to track home time. The flyer GMT allows you to do just that.
Rather than adjusting the GMT hand on another time zone like in a caller GMT, the flyer GMT allows you to set the GMT hand according to home time. You can then adjust the local hour hand to the timezone you’re in. This makes it incredibly convenient if you need to call home but aren’t sure when’s the right time.
Our top recommendation for a flyer GMT has to be the Rolex GMT-Master II. It makes for the ultimate cosmopolitan watch. It’s robust, and versatile and can be paired with almost any outfit for that additional ‘wow’ factor.
Okay, So, Why the Caller Vs. Flyer GMT Debate?
Caller GMT watches are meant for businessmen (or women, it’s the 21st century!), and true GMT watches are for your flyers and pilots. Why the debate then?
It honestly boils down to one thing, and one thing alone: preference. Now fans are divided on this one. You’ll find some people who think the office GMT vs travellers GMT dispute is pointless, and then you’ll find others who believe otherwise.
The debate however is centered around true GMT watches — and whether or not they deserve to be even called that. Some timekeeping fanatics believe that the flyer GMT is the true bearer of the name since it was first designed for pilots.
While that may be kind of true, it’s hard to ignore the facts. Rolex came out with the first GMT watch, the Master 6452 in 1954. And guess what? It didn’t, in fact, have independent hands! Eventually, in 1983, Rolex rolled out the GMT Master II which came with an adjustable 12-hour hand.
Here’s something else to ponder: you’ll find flyer or true GMT watches are more widely featured in high-end, luxury brand collections. We’re talking Grand Seiko, Omega, Rolex, and Tudor among many others. In a similar vein, we’ve seen brands such as Mido and Longines make some serious effort in manufacturing accessible flyer GMT watches. Coincidence? We think not.
So, what even are true GMT watches? We’ll leave that up to you to decide.
Caller Vs. Flyer GMT: Which GMT to Call Your Own
Now that we know what the two are, the next problem at hand is deciding which GMT watch to pick. Do you go with the flyer or the caller GMT? How do you even decide? The short, sweet and politically correct answer is that it depends entirely on you and your lifestyle.
Are you the CEO of a successful business that’s always waiting on international calls? Do you work from a fixed location but take calls from all over the globe? A caller GMT will do you good.
You simply set your main time to your current location and your GMT hand on the time zone you’re expecting a call from. Need to check in with another time zone? No biggie, the called GMT has you covered. Do some simple maths and switch the GMT hand.
The caller vs. flyer GMT debate would also be incomplete without mentioning that caller GMT watches are considerably cheaper than true GMT watches. You can get a pretty darn charming one for as little as $500. And if you ask us, that’s a steal!
If you’re a globe trotter, a pilot or anyone who’s always hopping on planes and never finds themself in a one-time zone, flyer GMT watches are your best friend. It allows you to change around your current time zone while staying true to your home (in every sense).
Our Top Recommendations for GMT Watches
Amidst the never-ending caller vs. flyer GMT argument, here are some of our top picks for GMT watches.
1. Rolex GMT-Master II
This yellow-gold watch is a masterpiece and a breath of fresh air from Rolex’s otherwise flashy, blingy watches. Not only does it bring a vintage look to the table, but it also features sleek black dials, and gold hands along with a grey and black bezel insert. Did we mention it also pairs well with a steel and yellow-gold Jubilee bracelet?
2. Patek Philippe Aquanaut GMT 18K Rose Gold
You know those watches that you’re convinced you must add to your collection? This one’s it. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut features a sleek 18K rose gold case and an iconic Aquanaut design that’s to die for. Not only is it a great keepsake in case you’re a collector, but it’s also extremely functional and versatile.
The rubber strap gives off a casual, sporty look which is probably one of the most modern collections in the Phillpe lineup. Don’t be fooled; the pushers on the side aren’t for show, allowing you to switch between time zones effortlessly.
3. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 Chrono/GMT
This one’s a real showstopper, and you probably already know why. When you think of Nautilus, think of the Swiss Army knife of watches —- packed with more features you can count on your fingers. Its 40.5 mm case is made with stainless steel and the embossed black gradient is a feast for eyes. The luminescent hour markers and hands glow in the dark like fireflies, perfect if you’re on the go at night.
4. Richard Mille 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT
The Richard Mille RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT is a real head-turner for any watch lover. It’s tough, made with supercar-grade materials — Grey Cermet. This material makes it almost 6 times harder than hardened steel, which can take a beating and still look like a million bucks!
The flyback chronograph allows you to reset the timer without stopping it. It’s also held together by 20 spline screws and sealed with Nitrile O-rings, plus it’s water-resistant to up to 50 meters!
5. Royal Oak Concept Split Second Chronograph GMT
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak strikes the perfect balance between science fiction and luxury. The titanium case measures 43 mm in diameter and 17.4 mm in thickness, and it fits your wrist like a glove. The octagonal bezel has its signature exposed screw look, and its satin-brushed finishes add to its aggressive look.
6. Longines Spirit Zulu Time
The all-new 39 mm Spirit Zulu Time hits the home run in the Longines, and we’re not complaining. The leather strap gives an old-school vibe that we’re all drooling over. These flyer-style watches feature three different colour combinations: a striking blue bezel with a black dial, a black bezel with a blue dial, and a green bezel with a black dial.
7. Tudor Black Bay GMT
Tudor’s fresh take on GMT watches has all of us swooning, and you probably understand why. The Black Bay features a stunning opaline dial that looks milky and has an almost sand-like sparkle. This flyer GMT watch has an iconic blue and red bezel that pairs well with the light dial.
8. Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT
The Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT seems to be a popular choice amongst watch enthusiasts. The watch truly has a luxurious feel to it, has impeccable build quality and features an oversized clasp that has heads turning. The bold red adds a pop of colour to the watch, which hits the sweet spot for many.
9. Traska Venturer GMT
The Venturer GMT is truly something we’ve never seen before, and dare we say, it’s an unconventional choice. The mint green version especially stands out in the crowd, and we’d understand anyone dying to get their hands on it. The pop of orange on the hands also makes a good combination. We’re surprised it worked as well as it has!
10. Unimatic Modello Uno U1S-C-GMT-H
We’re ending our list with an absolute banger — the Unimatic Modello Uno U1S-C-GMT-H. This limited edition watch features a 40mm forged carbon fibre case, striking with its unique pattern and lightweight build. The simple black dial and white luminous markers mean that the case alone takes centre stage, and we’re not complaining.
Putting an End to the Caller Vs. Flyer GMT Debate
GMT watches — love them or hate them, they’re still reigning strong to this day. The office GMT vs travellers GMT dispute continues to rage on and we’re not choosing sides just yet. Whether you’re a business person or a traveller, just know that there’s a GMT watch out there for you, waiting to be brought home.
If you ask us, there’s only a small chunk of individuals who would truly reap the benefits of true GMT watches. And with more accessible options springing up, it’s possible to enjoy a caller GMT without needing a pilot’s salary. However, the jury’s still on this one.
While you’re at it, consider browsing through our premium selection of preloved GMT watches at Love Luxury. Happy timekeeping, fellow watch lovers!